1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

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Cagey
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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Cagey » Sun Mar 12, 2023 9:51 pm

Yes sir, all you have to do is change out the speakers.

But to find the correct speakers for your situation you have to know where you are at now, and find out what your current excursion distance is, and then double it or more. Find speakers with longer excursion throw and all will be well. I also look for speakers with increased sensitivity on top of added excursion.

I can get double digit increases by using both to my advantage.
Last edited by Cagey on Sun Mar 12, 2023 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Stryker57
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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Stryker57 » Sun Mar 12, 2023 9:58 pm

ok and that makes sense now. i understood that you were correct that excursion would increase the air displacement which is a more efficient means of DBs from equal wattage, but i also figured something had to change, but i wasnt sure how you were planing on it,


TY much

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Cagey » Sun Mar 12, 2023 10:04 pm

You are welcome and thanks for civility.

The only physical issue you really have to deal with is to make sure the new excursion distance will not let the cone and suspension make contact with the cabinet. Just make sure the new throw distance is clear of physical obstructions within the speaker cabinet and that it is solidly mounted using quality hardware and not drywall screws. Solid bass depends on solid structure.

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Dookie » Sun Mar 12, 2023 10:48 pm

Stryker57 wrote:
Sun Mar 12, 2023 9:24 pm
ok then increase the excursion. so i dont get accused of any attacks or defamation and i am considered a foe and blocked, , please ask the expert what all you will need to do to your speakers to increase it. is it a simple addition of a tube and relief to tune the speaker , or a easy rebuild of the cabinet? turn it into a folded horn design?
yes there are many ways to increase low end.

the easiest and what will work with a simple placement adjustment of what you own would be to :couple" them together by placing them beside each other and having them on the ground.
cost to try 0..... time spent to try, 10 minutes?
dont like it spread them back out.

and dookie dont worry, we had the same suggestion because it works, we have learned through the years to make the best of what we have in our hand. there is no crime in that and i will never apologize for sharing what i know ,
but i understand i can always learn something new.
take care
Good talking with you. Excursion is how far a speaker moves in and out as you may well know. If you increase the wattage to a speaker it will move in/out farther to make the spl louder. A speaker that can handle more excursions than another would be a higher power rated speaker or one that is designed to go lower in frequency as the lower you go in frequency the farther a speaker has to move in/out to reproduce those frequencies, certainly at a higher level. If a person has a sub already and wants to get louder, they can increase the wattage and get more excursion. They go hand in hand. That said the original poster asked questions about adding more power to the current subs he had and the increased spl it may give, and I correctly replied that it would be "around" 1.6 dbs or so louder with the increased wattage and how it may or may not be loud enough for him. He did not ask about changing speakers out, so I didn't reply to that.

As far as coupling speakers. Frequencies need to be closer than 1/4 wavelength or less to couple well. An 80hz frequency which is around the thump tuning of an average bass drum and is roughly 14 feet or so in length. If 2 subs are closer than 3 1/2 feet which is 1/4 wavelength or 90 degrees of phase they should couple well. I like to keep subs closer than 20 inches as a general practice to me if I want them to couple should there be a room that the subs need to be spaced out some to fit in a given requirement. This is all and well but should you be in a room where the walls are located the wrong distance away from the subs the boundary cancelation this causes may affect the overall bass response in the room. So, in this case having the subs together on one side or even the standard left/right placement may work better. As you stated it will only take a few minutes to try different locations to place your subs and see which one is best for you.

Above you also mentioned changing the woofer out of a given box to get more excursion or spl as they go hand in hand. Speaker boxes and the woofers in them are designed to go together. A woofer has TS specs that is needed to design the box for it. You can put a higher power handling speaker in a current box you have but it needs to be done correctly with the possible retuning of the box and using a speaker with the proper specs to work well with the box and tuning if it is a ported speaker box. If you put the wrong woofer in a box, you could end up with less output overall and a box that puts out an uneven frequency response. I've used WinISD with good results should you like to enter in a woofer you were thinking of using as a replacement to the current woofer you have with the current box internal volume and port type and size. Then you could better see if the new woofer would be a better fit or not. Remember a standard box with a port is tuned to a given frequency to control excursion at the tuned frequency. If the box is not correctly tuned to the woofer going in, you may end up with less power handling. A link to WinISD should you want to give it a try. http://www.linearteam.org/

Again, good talking with you. I've seen you around for some time. I've been on here from when this forum first came out. I know around 2010 or so, maybe a little later they changed the format so all of us got reset as far as how long we have been on here.

Replying to Stryker57 only;
Doug

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by dak » Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am

Subwoofers generally use ported speaker cabinets: the wavelength of sound at subwoofer frequencies is long enough that the balance between pressure change and local velocity is out of whack for anything but large sound walls. A ported speaker uses resonance (at the cost of impulse accuracy) to let the speaker work against a much higher resistance: like horn loading this allows a more efficient transfer of electrical energy to sound, just that in contrast to a horn load, the frequency range where ported speakers have the support of resonance is quite constrained. In the low frequencies of a ported speaker, the majority of sound is emitted from the port, not the speaker.

Putting in a speaker "with larger excursion" can mean one of several things: a speaker with larger linear excursion range, or a speaker with larger sensitivity rating (which is for the central, linear excursion range). At a given speaker diameter and reasonable suspension, the possibility to increase those values while retaining the power rating is limited.

If you want a good transfer of electric power to sound in the subwoofer range without a sound wall or a bass horn (which tends to end up monstrous in size: early cinema speakers had the horn opening matched in size to the cinema and had efficiencies one can only dream of), you need a ported speaker design.

And for ported speakers, the resonance is everything. Put in a differently specced speaker, and you are likely to get out considerably lower sound pressure at larger excursions for the critical low frequencies. The least you can expect to have to do is replacing the port with one tuned to the new speaker/enclosure combination. There are tunable ports (and ports which you just saw off at the required length), but in a factory shipped speaker, the ports tend to be of fixed size.

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Cagey » Mon Mar 13, 2023 6:54 am

dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am
Subwoofers generally use ported speaker cabinets: the wavelength of sound at subwoofer frequencies is long enough that the balance between pressure change and local velocity is out of whack for anything but large sound walls. A ported speaker uses resonance (at the cost of impulse accuracy) to let the speaker work against a much higher resistance: like horn loading this allows a more efficient transfer of electrical energy to sound, just that in contrast to a horn load, the frequency range where ported speakers have the support of resonance is quite constrained. In the low frequencies of a ported speaker, the majority of sound is emitted from the port, not the speaker.
I disagree.
dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am
the wavelength of sound at subwoofer frequencies is long enough that the balance between pressure change and local velocity is out of whack for anything but large sound walls.
This one could use some elaboration.
dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am
A ported speaker uses resonance (at the cost of impulse accuracy) to let the speaker work against a much higher resistance: like horn loading this allows a more efficient transfer of electrical energy to sound,
Another one needing further elaboration clearly elucidated.

I disagree with how you worded it, but will give the benefit of doubt that you are again trying to say something right even if confusing.

One point I would like to make clear is that in no way can any pieces of wood in any configuration make any speaker transfer the electrical signal into mechanical more efficiently.

Whatever the efficiency rating is for the driver itself, this relationship between voice coil and speaker cone is not changed by any pieces of wood shaped into speaker cabinets of any kind.

All the cabinet does is shape the sound up.

You know how you can play with a mag flashlight and dial in the light from wide to a small dot on the wall?

We do the same to a speaker's output with cabinets. Same thing. Same principle at work. The body of the flashlight and cone mirror reflector the bulb is loaded into cannot and will not change the relationship of the electrical signal to the filament and its creation of light remains constant no matter what shape the light is adjusted to.

Same with sound basically.

I get what you are trying to say, just how you got there with words is often a confusing word salad to me and I hope you can understand that. Maybe its just your way of writing I am having a hard time with. I understand you are in Germany so there may be some communication issues between us leading to greater misunderstandings. I will try and be more pliable.
dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am
, just that in contrast to a horn load, the frequency range where ported speakers have the support of resonance is quite constrained.
You have completely lost me. I see off the top you get into resonance and now you are back to it in a way I cannot understand what you are trying to communicate here. So I'll skip this one.
dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am
In the low frequencies of a ported speaker, the majority of sound is emitted from the port, not the speaker.
And I totally disagree with this one. I'm nearly 60 now. When I was a kid I studied bass reflex cabinets and built my own as well building my own power amplifier right out of the Audio Encyclopedia. I took to sound like a duck to water. Loud and clear is my specialty.

And in having a 40 plus year career in sound going back to actually 1979, I have made good use of ported cabinets every step of the way.

I will once again try and consider that we may be experiencing a communication issue. But to me, this one is quite clear, and quite wrong as I see it.

First of all, you did not explain how the rear SPL can be MORE than the front SPL.

I would suggest that a speaker that moves forward and backwards has a constant SPL in both directions. If it is X going forward, it is X going backwards. I am not aware of any drop in SPL simply because of a change in cone movement direction.

To say that the ported output is the "majority of sound" is not accurate and is not physically possible.

If you study ported bass reflex cabinets, then you would know that the rear wave coming out of that port is a X2 situation backing up the front wave timed slightly behind it.

Now is there anything blocking the front wave? Usually not, and its merely shape it up and send it out as is.

But sir, there are things affecting the rear wave different than the front wave for lack of better more useful wording.

Most speakers have sound absorbing insulation inside. In acoustic suspension speakers the entire cabinet is packed densely with absorption materials to completely absorb and mute and remove the rear wave (if possible) from the audio image being produced.

But with ported speakers, we use a thinner insulation just to keep down the reflected waves from distorting the wave we want traveling through the cabinet. So there is in fact, sound absorbing materials inside most quality cabinets, and this has to attenuate the rear wave some as it travels through cabinet. The front wave does not have this. So technically, the rear wave should be reduced at the port just a slight bit in volume level, but not air pressure level which remains constant.

The rest is just tuning and shaping the cabinets for our chosen drivers. And adding in a little bit of vacuum to cabinet porting so we can drive even more power into the speakers if done correctly and use the slight cabinet pressure vacuum to slightly restrain peak excursions.

So I do not get how you can say the ported output is a majority of sound and NOT the speaker is just absolutely backwards to reality and anything I thought I ever knew about speakers and flies against physics and nature itself on this one. It has always been since day one right out of Audio Encyclopedia as X2. Not X2.1 or greater. It is NOT physically possible.

I know you say you have an electrical engineering degree, but did you ever run a sound system?

I spent decades in sound system contracting both commercial and government as a dealer for all the top brands while at the same I also was an electronics bench technician able to repair the same electronics I was using to build sound systems with. So I had an advantage most techs did not. I started out on the bench and moved into sound systems.

I also did freelance live sound engineering for more artists than I can count. The female jazz singers loved me. I was their boy. I was their secret weapon who helped the women combat the male players trying to blow her off the stage. I used the sound system to compensate on her behalf.

I worked as a freelance live sound engineer for a jazz big band music society for 10 years straight. Every show. I recorded a lot of them and some have been published as albums.

But before a show one day a lovely old jazz singer from the 50's quietly approached me before a show and said I have a soft voice. I cannot compete with the men trying to blow me off the stage. They will not play mink coat music for me since they were hired in for only that show and did not work with her on a regular basis. So the men when given opportunity to blow their horns they did even if it drowned out the star of the show. So she asked me kindly if I would please help her out with my sound system and I did. So the women singers had me on speed dial. I got a lot of calls because of it too. Sound system politics.

I had JBL's Mark Gander on speed dial for nearly 30 years. The timing of our careers and artists were parallel. For him 1976. For me 1979. It was his speakers I was using to do my thing to.

I designed, constructed, tuned, trained on, serviced and operated and recorded on large sound systems for many long years. And I can tell you some of the things found on this forum are egregious.

I am wondering if maybe you have trouble with English wording being from Germany. I know I have a real hard time with foreign languages myself.

But one thing we all have to realize fellas is that we all need to admit something.... technology is leaving us all in the dust.

I have to consider some of you may be older than I am at 58 and come from different worlds. I get that. And I also understand that antique degrees in education are the same. The buggy whip was a great product. But technology put it into the dust bins of history. It may make a comeback one day, who knows.

But to me there are also buggy whip degrees. You know the guys who get their electrical engineering degrees in the 1960's on tubes and early transistors, and then 40 years later the degree has been left in the dust by technology. It happened to me and I am big enough to admit.

I loved the days when I controlled the sound system with my hands and ears. Today those dam sound systems talk to each other and have automation changes and are basically coming alive and soon AI will be running sound for us.

I grew up in the tube era. I studied in the analog era. When digital came along it was like having to learn a new foreign language- chinese. I made the leap and hung around for awhile longer, but when the day came that all the same gear i used to control now had a voice of its own and was communicating with other equipment and flying faders moving up and down on their own. I knew it was time to go. Technology was leaving me in the dust. It was no longer fun.

So Dak I will have to consider we may be experiencing a communication gap of some kind.

But from the sound of your writings, it comes across to me like you never designed, built, tuned, operated, trained on, nor serviced large sound systems for a career. I did.
Last edited by Cagey on Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:39 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by dak » Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:09 am

Cagey wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 6:54 am
One point I would like to make clear is that in no way can any pieces of wood in any configuration make any speaker transfer the electrical signal into mechanical more efficiently.

Whatever the efficiency rating is for the driver itself, this relationship between voice coil and speaker cone is not changed by any pieces of wood shaped into speaker cabinets of any kind.

All the cabinet does is shape the sound up.
Horn speakers are not created for their looks but because they do an impedance transform making the speaker membrane work against a much larger mechanical resistance, leading to a better transfer of the electrical power spent to sound energy.

That's not "shaping the sound up", whatever that is supposed to mean.

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Cagey » Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:11 am

dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:09 am
Horn speakers are not created for their looks but because they do an impedance transform making the speaker membrane work against a much larger mechanical resistance, leading to a better transfer of the electrical power spent to sound energy.

That's not "shaping the sound up", whatever that is supposed to mean.
It means this.

Horn speakers are made for distance throwing.

I use a combination of them in concerts so I have the correct cabinets to shape the sound for lobbing various distances. Short throw for up close. Short horns for medium throw speakers to reach deeper into audience, and then large long throw horns to really shape the sound and toss it out there across a football field. Like these:

Image

You are looking at short throw, medium throw, and long throw designs here.

The horns are for shaping the sound for distance applications. Nothing more. Nothing less.

It is the same principle at work in those cabinets as you would adjust the light on a mag flashlight either wider or narrow down to a spot. These cabinets shape the sound for me to use in large locations to reach audience further from stage.

Simple and easy physics to grasp here. Nothing to it.

This is NOT electrical engineering. Your degree does not make you a speaker expert clearly. You are saying things that simply are not real.

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Dookie » Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:31 am

dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:31 am
Subwoofers generally use ported speaker cabinets: the wavelength of sound at subwoofer frequencies is long enough that the balance between pressure change and local velocity is out of whack for anything but large sound walls. A ported speaker uses resonance (at the cost of impulse accuracy) to let the speaker work against a much higher resistance: like horn loading this allows a more efficient transfer of electrical energy to sound, just that in contrast to a horn load, the frequency range where ported speakers have the support of resonance is quite constrained. In the low frequencies of a ported speaker, the majority of sound is emitted from the port, not the speaker.

Putting in a speaker "with larger excursion" can mean one of several things: a speaker with larger linear excursion range, or a speaker with larger sensitivity rating (which is for the central, linear excursion range). At a given speaker diameter and reasonable suspension, the possibility to increase those values while retaining the power rating is limited.

If you want a good transfer of electric power to sound in the subwoofer range without a sound wall or a bass horn (which tends to end up monstrous in size: early cinema speakers had the horn opening matched in size to the cinema and had efficiencies one can only dream of), you need a ported speaker design.

And for ported speakers, the resonance is everything. Put in a differently specced speaker, and you are likely to get out considerably lower sound pressure at larger excursions for the critical low frequencies. The least you can expect to have to do is replacing the port with one tuned to the new speaker/enclosure combination. There are tunable ports (and ports which you just saw off at the required length), but in a factory shipped speaker, the ports tend to be of fixed size.
Thanks for this post. Some very good correct information here. I'd like to cover just one or two area in your post for other members in this group who may want to understand this part better if I may.

"""In the low frequencies of a ported speaker, the majority of sound is emitted from the port, not the speaker."""

A rough way of seeing a ported box and the sound it makes is like a pop bottle. The size of the bottle and the size and length of the bottles neck can be changed. When you blow across the top of the bottle a note is reproduced. That note will change as the sizes of the bottle and neck change.
When a speaker with given specs is put in a ported box and the box tuned frequency is excited by the woofer, somewhat like blowing across a pop bottle, the box is reproducing the lion's share of the output. Because the box is vibrating the woofer is held in place or dampened. This gives an increase in power handling to the woofer as it reduces the cone moment at box tuning. Often a box designer will tune a box a few cycles below where the natural low frequency rolls off on a woofers spec is. Back in the day before I had test equipment, I would put a white dot on a woofer and with a frequency generator run tones through it while it was in a ported box. When the cone movement was the least at a given frequency that was a ruff box/port tuning that I was getting. I would then adjust the box port as needed. You are 100 percent correct in saying the majority of the sound is reproduced in the lowest frequency range by the box. At and around box tuning the box is reproducing the majority of these frequencies.

For the group some very basic examples. You can have an 18-inch woofer that is designed to go into a 2 cubic foot box or an 18-inch woofer that needs to be in a 12 cubic foot box. If a woofer doesn't have the right Ts spec's and is put in the wrong sized box, then the Box will have a great effect on the woofers output and frequency response. A woofer that needs to be in a large box and is put in a small one might have the box become a high Q box where there is a peak in the box's frequency response. If a woofer that is designed to go into a smaller box is put in a larger box, even if tuned correctly it may be under dampened by the boxes internal volume. So, it's frequency response may not be optimum, and its power handling maybe compromised. A box size and box tuning make a large impact on what a woofer reproduction is inside that box. Move a woofer to different boxes and it will reproduce sound differently. The box and the woofer have to be designed to work together. Even a small difference can make a noticeable difference in output and frequency response. The correct box is very important in the overall sound a woofer will make inside it. A person can have a woofer that is spec'd at 100db 1w1m and another that is spec'd at 103dbs 1w1m but if the woofer with the 103db spec is put in the wrong box then the total output within the bandpass may be less than the 100db woofer. Before anyone spends hundreds of dollars on a woofer it is worthwhile to make sure you have the correct box and speaker specs, so they work together. You may just be throwing your money away if you don't at least check first.

When you say "without a sound wall" do you mean an infinite baffle?

All the above is extremely basic in explanation. As this is the very first thing most speaker box designers learn it may be too simple for those here who are knowledgeable in this field. Without this basic knowledge though, a person really doesn't know about speaker design or how a box and speaker work together to reproduce sound, so I thought I'd put it here.

There is much that can be learned about a ported box or Helmholtz resonator. I'll just put up one Google search as an example.

""' In a properly tuned vented system, the port is providing the majority of low-frequency output, and the driver’s excursion—and hence its distortion—is very low."""
https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker ... %20chooses.

Here also are some basic T/S parameters explanations.
https://learn.sonicelectronix.com/t-s-t ... 0subwoofer.

Last this is a video to give an idea as to what goes on in pairing a woofer to a box, so they work well together. Although I wish it was it is not as simple as just buying a woofer on paper that seems better than a woofer you have now and putting it in an existing box.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUg5z_SV15o

Replying to DAK only.
Doug

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by dak » Mon Mar 13, 2023 9:38 am

Dookie wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:31 am
When you say "without a sound wall" do you mean an infinite baffle?
An infinite baffle is a single speaker in a wall that is large compared to the wavelength of sound. I rather meant the kind of humongous open baffle with lots of drivers in it that some bands used as PA. When the size is large enough compared to the acoustic wavelength, the acoustic impedance becomes a better match since the resulting compression from the movement of the cones cannot get away to the side.

Though to utilize that kind of construct for increasing efficiency, you'd have to wall off the sides to sufficient depth so that the speakers at the side don't get significant less air resistance to move against than those in the middle. Probably not a practical construct. But then neither is the infinite baffle...

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by dak » Mon Mar 13, 2023 9:59 am

Cagey wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:11 am
dak wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 8:09 am
Horn speakers are not created for their looks but because they do an impedance transform making the speaker membrane work against a much larger mechanical resistance, leading to a better transfer of the electrical power spent to sound energy.

That's not "shaping the sound up", whatever that is supposed to mean.
It means this.

Horn speakers are made for distance throwing.

I use a combination of them in concerts so I have the correct cabinets to shape the sound for lobbing various distances. Short throw for up close. Short horns for medium throw speakers to reach deeper into audience, and then large long throw horns to really shape the sound and toss it out there across a football field. Like these:

Image

You are looking at short throw, medium throw, and long throw designs here.

The horns are for shaping the sound for distance applications. Nothing more. Nothing less.
Run a horn driver at nominal power levels without the horn and you'll break it because it cannot support the resulting excursions.

At any rate, constant directivity horns exist and they are not for the long throw but spread the sound essentially like a non-horn speaker while having the energy transfer efficiency of a horn arrangement.
Simple and easy physics to grasp here. Nothing to it.

This is NOT electrical engineering. Your degree does not make you a speaker expert clearly. You are saying things that simply are not real.
It's acoustical engineering, but the principles are actually related to those you need for antenna design.

I am afraid that your explanations are not a good match to the actual variety and behavior of various speaker types in the field. Experience can help a lot with offsetting the effects of bad assumptions: after all, you mostly get to work with (or use as starting points) complete devices assembled based on the actual physical behavior, so the influence of incorrect beliefs is limited in scope. But for people actually working with components, this kind of misapprehension is not really helpful.

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Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Dookie » Mon Mar 13, 2023 1:20 pm

Cagey wrote:
Mon Mar 13, 2023 10:36 am
They are baffling because you make little sense.

If you choose to believe you are a genius and can never be wrong then so be it.

That alone makes discussion impossible. Your ears are closed. You know it all. Dookie too.

Both of you should be booted out of here and let real engineers lay it out here. Both of you are not worth bothering with any longer and I do have more important things to deal with than two self proclaimed experts waving antique degrees around like you can never be wrong.

Even when proven wrong, you still persist in trying to save face with more word salads of nonsense.

I gotta stop. Life is out there, not here.

When I get the time I will try and ask some real sound guys to come in here in numbers and give you guys some more "experts" to tangle with. Should be interesting to.

One of the error tag team will be along shortly to show us all how holy and smug and arrogant and condescending he can be and show us all he is never wrong. Really sad and pathetic we have two geniuses who are never wrong. They are now fully exposed. Beware peavey customers! You are being played!

And if other sound guys come in here, hopefully they will also tag team on the error tag team. That would be the plan anyway. Apparently this forum needs accurate useful information rather than baffling word salads of errors they never own up to. And this cannot be tolerated.

Men who behave like this would be thrown out very quickly. They would not survive the industry with their I am never wrong false narrative they construct around themselves like you read below. People who are never wrong cannot be dealt with. They must go their own way so other more reasonable cooperative decent humans can engage in normal behavior.

Men who are never wrong have no place in sound. The false narrative crowd needs to go.
Sorry (honestly) I agreed with your posts and added some more for others here. I'm not a know it all at all. Really. I've been trying to side with you. It is important for others to realize that you are right. Even though you, like me I believe (maybe I'm wrong) are exhausted trying to get the message out. The post and quotes are so fractured that it may be possible I replied to you instead of someone else with a neg comment. If that is the case, I apologize to you.

I hope you don't but if you log out you will be effectively out of the group. Your post will be here but will be lost in time unless directly accessed by someone. If you have the time search my post out. You will find I am really quite good at getting along here.

I'll leave you with something on a personal level. My wife and I have been married over 41 years. In 2019 she was diagnosed with stage 4 (terminal) cancer. We were first told she had days to live. With Ibrance and treatments she was doing well as the cancer was just in her bones. We found out a week before this Christmas that cancer has developed in her liver. Things don't look good. I can assure you I look at life differently and only want to share what I've taken a lifetime to learn. It is possible that you and I are just frustrated with a current situation. I know I am. I've resolved for me should I read a post from a source I don't respect anymore I simply won't' reply. Regardless of the comments. I'm going to take the higher ground. On any and all the forums I am on I am no longer going to feed the trolls.

I truly hope you stick around. I've made a few phone calls. Who knows in time things just may work themselves out. ;-)
With respect.
Doug

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Location: Cincinnati,Ohio

Re: 1500 watts rms 4 ohms Amp recommendations

Post by Stryker57 » Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:53 pm

doug
sorry to hear, glad they was wrong about the days ,
and you have gotten years.
you are right to live each day as the blessing and the gift for what it is.
its all we can do .
my wife received a double transplant in '98.
it has now been 25 years
she is swamped with pills
and they make her sick and weak at times
But we have been blessed with 25 years.

prayer for you and your wife.
Vince

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