Hi,
I bought a pair of new Hisys H10 and a used H18 sub. Neither came with a manual. I cannot find a manual on the Peavey website.
I tried around (spectrum analyzer) and it seemed to me that the best frequency response happens when I set the sub to 80 Hz and don’t filter anything on the tops.
When I activate the low cut on the tops, the through remains unchanged and I can’t get it linear.
Questions:
- How can I access the manuals ?
- How does the yellow LED work ? Can it go red ? Should it be yellow ?
- The spec says 4dBu input, and my mixer ouput is 30 dBu. Is it ok to keep the H10/H18 input gain low ? (Noise floor is unchanged, when I turn the gain, so I assume the gain pots attenuate the input. So entering 30 dBu at low gain should not clip I hope)
I really need know what’s going on in there, e.g. a block diagram. Plus what’s the yellow LED doing ?
Thanks.
Operation manual Hisys H10, H18
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- New Member
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Re: Operation manual Hisys H10, H18
As I received no reply yet, I will post my own research result.
Assumptions:
I can go straight out of a DJ mixer into the PA and if I'm not in the red's on the DJ mixer, I'm fine as long as the gain pots on the Peavey are turned to a position where the led on the peavey flashes only yellow and not red. (I didn't push it to red for trying, and I have no idea if it really is a bicolor LED, but I darkly remember having read about a red color somewhere ???).
Measurements:
- It doesn't matter if I first go into the tops or into the sub. On all settings (cut or not) the THROUGH port contains an unmodified signal
- The tops start slightly rolling of at 200 Hz, when I set it to LOW CUT. So there is the danger of having a hole between 100 and 200 Hz
- The tops start tolling off steep at 85 Hz in both modes (low cut or not). I wonder why the spec suggests something else here.
- So it's like they had a steep low cut that gets effective at 85Hz, and the "low cut" button adds a 10 dB shelve stat starts curving in at 200 Hz ?
- My freq chars look equal when I set the top to low cut and the sub to 125Hz, as when I set the top to full range and the sub to 80 Hz
- Sub in 80Hz mode starts rolling off at 80 Hz, ist still very present at 140 Hz, and gets quiet at 300 Hz
- Sub in 125 Hz mode starts rolling off at 125 Hz (or is it more 110 ?), is still very present at 160Hz and gets quet at 300Hz
- So when the tops are on Low Cut, having less volume already between 100 and 200, the 125Hz sub can fill that gap
Conclusion:
On "low" volume (90 dBA, 100 dBA) the mode with 80Hz Sub and full range top sounds better to my ears. The alternative (sub 125 and top with low cut), that looks equal in the freq measurement, sounds less defined. However, maybe on high volume (> 120dBA) it might be different and favorable to shift load off the top. I mean, there must be a reason for the low cut switch on the top, right. Or was that maybe for a top-only operation with voice, to remove rumble, and never meant in interaction with the sub ? Because Sub 80 and Top on Low Cut leaves a nasty hole between 100 and 200 and does not sound nice.
I also drive the sub hotter, when I play, than during the measurement, where I was striving for linearity. And when I look at a typical club curve (the one of dSoniq RealCurves) I should drive it super hot (>10 dB over the tops), and even at the 80Hz setting (which bleeds noticeably up to 160 Hz) with this shallow roll-off steepness I won't get the club curve, which should only be boosted below 100Hz. Well, it sounds great at 80 Sub and fullrange-top, I won't complain.
You can find frequency measurement charts at this link (you need the software REW to open it):
https://pumpingalien.com/download/PA_Fr ... ssung.mdat
(Measured with a cheap spectrum measurement mic in a 10mx8m living room)
I wished, having such a super high quality product, I'd have to do less guesswork. Esp. regarding the functionality of the yellow LED. I'm a bit scared to test if it can ever get red in my basement somewhere at 130 dBA ... poor spiders who're living there ...
Assumptions:
I can go straight out of a DJ mixer into the PA and if I'm not in the red's on the DJ mixer, I'm fine as long as the gain pots on the Peavey are turned to a position where the led on the peavey flashes only yellow and not red. (I didn't push it to red for trying, and I have no idea if it really is a bicolor LED, but I darkly remember having read about a red color somewhere ???).
Measurements:
- It doesn't matter if I first go into the tops or into the sub. On all settings (cut or not) the THROUGH port contains an unmodified signal
- The tops start slightly rolling of at 200 Hz, when I set it to LOW CUT. So there is the danger of having a hole between 100 and 200 Hz
- The tops start tolling off steep at 85 Hz in both modes (low cut or not). I wonder why the spec suggests something else here.
- So it's like they had a steep low cut that gets effective at 85Hz, and the "low cut" button adds a 10 dB shelve stat starts curving in at 200 Hz ?
- My freq chars look equal when I set the top to low cut and the sub to 125Hz, as when I set the top to full range and the sub to 80 Hz
- Sub in 80Hz mode starts rolling off at 80 Hz, ist still very present at 140 Hz, and gets quiet at 300 Hz
- Sub in 125 Hz mode starts rolling off at 125 Hz (or is it more 110 ?), is still very present at 160Hz and gets quet at 300Hz
- So when the tops are on Low Cut, having less volume already between 100 and 200, the 125Hz sub can fill that gap
Conclusion:
On "low" volume (90 dBA, 100 dBA) the mode with 80Hz Sub and full range top sounds better to my ears. The alternative (sub 125 and top with low cut), that looks equal in the freq measurement, sounds less defined. However, maybe on high volume (> 120dBA) it might be different and favorable to shift load off the top. I mean, there must be a reason for the low cut switch on the top, right. Or was that maybe for a top-only operation with voice, to remove rumble, and never meant in interaction with the sub ? Because Sub 80 and Top on Low Cut leaves a nasty hole between 100 and 200 and does not sound nice.
I also drive the sub hotter, when I play, than during the measurement, where I was striving for linearity. And when I look at a typical club curve (the one of dSoniq RealCurves) I should drive it super hot (>10 dB over the tops), and even at the 80Hz setting (which bleeds noticeably up to 160 Hz) with this shallow roll-off steepness I won't get the club curve, which should only be boosted below 100Hz. Well, it sounds great at 80 Sub and fullrange-top, I won't complain.
You can find frequency measurement charts at this link (you need the software REW to open it):
https://pumpingalien.com/download/PA_Fr ... ssung.mdat
(Measured with a cheap spectrum measurement mic in a 10mx8m living room)
I wished, having such a super high quality product, I'd have to do less guesswork. Esp. regarding the functionality of the yellow LED. I'm a bit scared to test if it can ever get red in my basement somewhere at 130 dBA ... poor spiders who're living there ...