Peavey Forum

Hi
Just wondered if anybody could give some pointers please on a fault that has developed on my Ecoustic E110.
If the amp hasn't been used for a while, on switch on the amp does not work at all and there are a continuous series of "pops" from the speaker about one second apart. The volume of the pop does vary with volume and the blue mute LED flashes in between pops. After perhaps 30 minutes the amp starts to work and seems to be okay. However the channel and parameter switches do not work when pressed and pressing the switches, does stop the amp working temporarily. I might get 30 minutes playing - the reverb chorus and delay work and can be adjusted, but then the speaker starts to pop again. Powering off and on does not clear the fault and the pops return. If I switch it off and leave it for a month I might get 30 minutes use again.
Any help or suggestions on what might be causing this fault would be appreciated. Thanks

Hey, I'm curious if you got this figured out. Figure out what the issue is?

I'm no expert but I guess there is a loose solder somewhere that causes short circuit.. unfortunately I can't confirm whether my hunch is correct or not.

I own the Ecoustic E208 and it is poorly designed.. the reverb and chorus should not be used because it causes loud humm. I brought it to repair shop and they confirm it is design.. I use pedal for effect.

I just traded for an E110 at a used gear shop... love the sound of it, but mine has the exact same issue.

It may be useful to note, I was playing mine in my "Music Room" (of my very old house) where I have a computer, a humidifier and several other gadgets plugged in to the same circuit. I was having the on/off problem every 5 or 10 minutes (and upon initial startup). So then I took it down to my basement and plugged it in... I was able to play it for a good half hour and it worked just fine without any problems.

So is it possible the issue is insufficient power supply? I've played other amps in my music room, but maybe the E110 is more sensitive to it?

I had the same issue with an Ecoustic E110 with pops and the blue light flashing.

If you open the amp up, there is a filter capacitor which is faulty. Can't remember exactly, I think it was a 470uf 35V or something, but u can tell its faulty when looking at it, as the top of it forms a bubble - the electrolyte dries up and causes this.

Replace this, and while u are there have a look at the other capacitors - if you have an ESR meter, you can measure them in circuit and find the faulty ones.

The manufacturers in ( China ? ) probably used a faulty batch of electrolytic cap's in the power supply section ,

Mine is now working -

All the best in fixing it, if you haven't already.

maco

Did this issue ever get resolved as I also bought a second hand Ecoustic E110 and suffer of with the same issue.

I did as @maco explained and it indeed solved the issue
The capacitor 4700µF / 16V was broken.
It could be easy recognized by the little bubble on top.
I replaced it and it worked perfectly after.

An old post, but I assume more of the Ecoustic E110 amps will have the continuous power on cycle after warm up problem as they age. So a refresh for 2022 and an image except I cant seem to get that working

The problem occurs because the main processor chip has a supply voltage detection function which reboots the device if the power rail does not meet its expectations. As the unit ages, the PSU fails to meet those and the unit reboots. As time goes on, the problem gets more prevalent.

I had previously replaced the 4700uF/16V cap which fixed the immediate problem, only for it to return a year or so later. The proper fix is to replace all 3 high value electros (as suggested in prev posts) in the PSU board, ie including the two 2200uF/50V ones. These are all involved in supplying the processor chip with power, and given they're also a similar age it makes sense they would also be at end of life. Possibly as maco suggests theyre chinese specials, although electros commonly fail with time.

Be vary careful removing the bonding compound holding the two larger caps onto the board, so that you don't dislodge any of the small SMD components in close proximity.

The PSU board is easy to get to, just remove the outer two board screws and the heatsink screws.

If this image doesnt work PM me for a copy or more info :



Hopefully these combined posts help prevent landfill